Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
